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Tantalizing Tuscany

A realtime travel adventure with the Wild Writing Women

Read the dispatches beginning September 17, 2001

The Wild Writing Women are traveling together to Tuscany to celebrate the release of our book, Wild Writing Women: Stories of World Travel. It will be the first time all twelve of us have ever been together in the same place at the same time. With the addition of Maureen Wheeler, co-founder of Lonely Planet Guidebooks (our gracious hostess), we are thirteen, the traditional number required for a coven, we hear. In keeping with the nature of travel writers, most of us are traveling around Italy and beyond before and after our visit. (Aren't we predictable?) Here's what some of us will be doing... rather, what we plan to be doing, which is usually a completely different thing.

Check the DISPATCHES index for all the stories, photos and video that begin on September 17, 2001. For stories from the villa see dispatches starting on September 22.

Lisa Alpine
Lisa Alpine will be flying into Florence to join the Wild Writing Women gang at The Villa. She has her olive green silk bikini packed, ready for poolside, and her laptop so she may capture in woven words the magical events and minute but mystical details of this sojourn under the Tuscan sun. Along with those important accouterments, she is also traveling with a suitcase of CDs so that she can spin tunes in the warm evenings. While the wild women sip bubbly Proseco they shall dance under the Tuscan moon, for Lisa is also a dejay and dance teacher who after the fantasy time at The Villa, will head out to Milan in a midget rental car, pick up Delisa Heiman, one of her favorite dance students and a traveling companion par excellence, and head to Bologna where Lisa is being sponsored to teach a dance workshop. See the workshop descriptions of this and other splendid trips she leads to Egypt, Hawaii, Mexico and France. After teaching dance in a language she does not speak, Lisa is going to enjoy the cultured atmosphere at Villa Montefano, a reading retreat in rural Italy. Perchance, they shall have her read stories from the Wild Writing Women: Stories of World Travel to their guests. Then it is off to few romantic, wondering days in Venice to experiment with Sculptural Movement in public places. She may take a detour on departing Venice to stop at Abano Terme near Padova, one of the "best spas in Europe" to take the waters. Quiet, rejuvenation will be found at Damanhur a spiritual, art retreat in northern foothills near Torino where she will spend the last three days in meditation before flying home.

Jacqueline Harmon Butler
My adventure begins in Venice with Maureen and a few of the Wild Writing Women. Weâll explore the back calli (streets) and rii (waterways)·get up before daylight to photograph the sunrise·drink Fragolino, Buccintoro and Sgroppino with the locals·indulge in Venetian foods like: seppie con polenta, canocce, and moleche at Ristorante Do Forni·ride a vaporetto from one end of the Grand Canal to the other at sunset·flirt with the gondolieri·dance in the Piazza San Marco at midnight. Weâll take the noon train to Florence, then head up to Barberino di Mugello and the Villa dei Castello for our weeklong retreat. I plan to laze by the pool·sleep in the sun·shop in the local markets·prepare fabulous food·sit under the stars far into the night talking, planing, dreaming with my friends·zoom around the countryside in the rental car·take the group to meet the infamous Claudio at his restaurant, Botticelli, in Lucca·poke around the wine growing region of Rufina. Iâll spend the following week in Florence with assorted WWW. On Sunday weâll head into the rolling hills of Chianti for lunch at Vignale in Radda, then explore the vineyards nearby. Weâll wander the streets of Florence·eat lots of gelato·visit the Michelangeloâs at the Cappelle Medicee·have dinner at Il Latini·shop the street market at San Lorenzo to find the perfect leather jacket, maybe a handbag too.

Lauren CuthbertLauren Cuthbert
We're pleased to be adventuring for this week in Tuscany with Wild Writing Women Lauren, who three years ago took on the challenging adventure of motherhood.

 

 

Lynn FerrinLynn Ferrin
Lynn has decided not to travel.

 

 

Carla KingCarla King
For this trip to celebrate the release of Wild Writing Women: Stories of World Travel I couldn't resist the opportunity to create yet another motorcycle misadventure -- a month-long exploration of Italy's backroads on a Moto Guzzi. I'll begin in Milan and pick up the motorcycle at Bruno Scola's (famous Italian mechanic and racer) dealership, then make my way through Torino to Damanhur, an intentional spiritual community where I'll spend a few days exploring and meditating in their incredible underground temples. A five hour ride south takes me to join my fellow wild writing women at a villa in Tuscany, home base for a week. During this week Iâm looking forward to day tripping in the area... might I lure a few other wild writing women along with me on the Guzzi? Then I'll be traveling alone again, journeying from mainland to island, starting with Elba, perhaps, and meandering over the Mediterranean to Sardinia and then Sicily where the volcano has been acting a bit like its famous neighbor at Pompei. After Sicily I'll land at Italy's boot to make my way back north through small villages, on the lookout for culinary treats (it's truffle season, I hear) all the way back to Milan and to end my trip in the beautiful, Northern Italian village where Moto Guzzi's are made. Alis Agostini, who runs the dealership there will take me to meet Stephani at the factory -- two Italian women in motorcycling in one trip! Join me. Iâll be sending dispatches twice weekly back to the Italian Lessons Web site.

Jennifer Leo
Jennifer returned home from a round-the-world adventure just a few weeks ago... yet we successfully lured her back on a plane!

 

 

Danielle Machotka
I land in Florence with a couple of the other wild women on the 22nd and weâll zoom to the villa in my rental car. Yes, zoom, because I donât know any other speed in Italy. A week of who-knows-what follows, and if Iâm still standing (and driving), Iâll cross the hills into Umbria to visit my father, who now lives in a bucolic setting three kilometers outside a two-cafŽ town. Hereâs the interesting part: my new boyfriend, Jim, is joining me there to meet my father and stepmother, and we are heading off to Vernazza together with two friends from Seattle, Annie and Rod. There weâll work with the locals, carrying on a tradition my sister and I started two years ago÷rebuilding dry-laid stone walls, clearing terraces, cleaning trails, harvesting grapes. In the afternoons and evenings weâll hike, hang out with our local friends Alessandro, Giorgio, Daniele, and anyone who happens by. After five days of that, Annie, Rod and I are off to southern France and Annieâs stomping grounds. Jim heads off to visit his relatives near Milan, and we should know by then if we are compatible travelers. Meeting the parents and traveling together at the same time? A definite test of this relationship.

Linda Watanabe McFerrin
ãLawrence and I knew better, of course. We had seen this happen before. We knew that the meal most longed-for is the meal not yet eaten.ä ö Linda Watanabe McFerrin, On Pleasures Oral
The last time I was in Tuscany I found love in Florence (Florence, the Face of Love forthcoming in Travelersâ Tales Tuscany, Fall 2001), mystery and sensuality in Venice (Enchanted Piazza, San Francisco Examiner Magazine; On Pleasures Oral, Wild Writing Women: Stories of World Travel) and magic in the eighth century castle where I stayed with dear friends on the Italian coast. This trip I continue my quest for the exquisite, the exotic and the erotic as I revisit the sites of past escapades and explore new ones. This time, fired by the excitement that has surrounded the launch of my latest workshop, From the Realm of the Senses: Understanding and Writing Erotica (next workshop November 17, 2001 at Book Passage), Iâll be probing ever deeper into the pleasures of la dolce vita. Where will this take me? Back to Venice? Back to Florence? Or, all over the sun-drenched Tuscan countryside in the company of other wild women?

For information about Lindaâs workshops and writings, go to www.lwmcferrin.com.

Pamela MichaelPamela Michael
Pamela is combining work and pleasure on this trip. Does a travel writer ever really do otherwise? She hopes to spend Week One in Tuscany venturing out from the villa to explore the forests and hills of the Mugello. "I'm bringing my collapsible walking stick," she says, "and I mean to poke it's sure-footed titanium tip into miles of Tuscan trails." Week Two will take Pam to another villa--this one in the village of Rubiana (near Torino). Her friend Carolyn from Berkeley just bought the place as a vacation retreat. Carlo and Paoletta, Italian friends whom Pam met in Paris years ago, live nearby. Carolyn's coming over for the week, and Pam expects she'll spend lots of time catching up with Carlo and Paoletta and helping Carolyn spend money on antiques and other fun stuff for the house. For the last two weeks of the trip, Pam will fly from Milan to Tehran (thank you Alitalia!) at the invitation of President Khatemi to open an exhibit of children's art and poetry from the annual contest conducted by the organization she co-founded (and still directs) with former US Poet Laureate Robert Hass, River of Words. While in Iran she's going to go river rafting in the north and will also visit as many ancient cities as she can. She plans to come home with a suitcase full of saffron.

Cathleen MillerCathleen Miller
I'll be flying into Roma alone, and I'm eagerly awaiting my first glimpse of the Eternal City. Only today I received a note from my hotel saying: "Dear Cathy Miller, it will be for us a unique pleasure accommodating you and your wife on your Roman holiday." Yes, that certainly will be a unique pleasure... for me anyway! While in Rome I will also be on the trail of material for my next project, a biography of Dr. Nafis Sadik, former executive director of the U.N. Population Fund, and a lifelong advocate of women's reproductive rights. At the Cairo Conference in 1994, she had a well-documented showdown with the Vatican over their refusal to endorse all but "natural methods" of birth control. I hope to interview some of the parties knowledgeable about this debate, so I can present an accurate account in the book. After I leave Rome I've given myself a few days with nothing planned, and will see where destiny leads me. The Amalfi Coast? Cinque Terre? Le Carcere? Then it's on to Venice where I'll be meeting some of my WWW compatriots. Christi and I will be rooming together at the Hotel Bonvecchiati, just off the Piazza San Marco, and plan to spend many happy hours at their outdoor cafe. After a few days in Venice, I'll meet all twelve of the WWW for a historic reunion at a villa in Tuscany. Maureen Wheeler from Lonely Planet will be joining us. Since the structure was built in the ninth century, it may have seen the likes of us before÷in fact in a thousand years of accommodating, this villa has probably seen it all. Even thirteen wild women traveling sans wives.

Christi PhillipsChristi Phillips
Christi will join Jacqueline, Linda, Cathy, Alison and Maureen in Venezia before joining us at the villa.



Alison WrightAlison Wright
Alison's week at the villa will be followed by some time in Istanbul.


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